Mount Hood

05/04/13

Mount Hood

A trip report for Mount Hood South Climb
Posted by Nathan Putnam
Road Issues: Road is great
Trail Condition: Easy to navigate
Bugs: Not an issue
Snow Level: Starts at 5,000 ft

Finally made it down to Oregon and tackled Hood! Adams and Rainier are next :)

NWAC issued a special report on wet loose avy conditions but the snow at Hood is solidified and slightly iced over. Forecasted freezing levels were predicted to get down to 9200 ft for only about an hour during night and then shoot above the summit but we experienced freezing levels low on the mountain and well into the morning. It kept the snow good until our return at 10am.

The mountain was getting pummeled with wind the whole day. Low on the mountain we were very exposed and experienced 40mph average winds with gusts up to 60mph! (Data direct from NWAC.. not us guessing). Higher up by devils kitchen the mountain offered us protection. A lenticular cloud was blasting over the mountain the whole day from the North side. An amazing sight!

No one was climbing up the pearly gates. Some said it was very icy. We decided to follow the crowd and climb up the old chute. Watch for icefall as people climb above you! I got pelted a few times with golf ball size chunks. Its your decision to rope up for the chute. I would guess it sits at about a 50 degree angle. The rope teams I did see seemed like they had no clue what they were doing and I would guess that one of them falling would have dragged the rest in the team down the mountain. Dangerous especially if you sit below them...

Get out and enjoy the sunny weather!

Looking North up the old chute. Clouds pink with the sunrise were blowing over the North side of the mountain with incredible speed.

Looking west at sunrise on the hogsback. The lenticular cloud seen in the picture above was dissolving as it met the horizon.

Proof that we made it! Helens, Adams, and Rainier to the North of Hood.

The entire route up the cat track was being blasted with winds up to 60mph. Made for an interesting hike. Once you got west of the steel cliffs we were offered some protection.

Comments (3)

Congratulations on a great climb! 60 mph gusts?! So fun.

Cool picture of the chute - really conveys how steep it is.

Great info – sounds like the Old Chute is the way to go right now. Love these pictures.